Tsomgo (Changu) Lake
Tsomgo Lake, also called Changu Lake, is a glacial lake about 38 km from Gangtok at around 3,750 metres. The lake is about a kilometre long, surrounded by steep slopes, and changes completely with the seasons: frozen in winter, ringed with snow in early spring and bordered by flowers in May. Yak rides and small tea stalls line the shore.
Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir
Further up the road is the shrine to Baba Harbhajan Singh, an Indian Army soldier who died in the area in 1968. Soldiers believe his spirit still guards the border, and the shrine is visited by thousands of travellers each year.
Nathula Pass
Nathula, at about 4,310 metres, is a mountain pass on the India–China border, once part of the old Silk Route trade between Tibet and India. At the top you can see the border fence and soldiers of both countries. Photography towards the Chinese side is not allowed.
Permits and rules
- Tsomgo Lake and Baba Mandir need a permit, arranged through a registered tour operator, usually the day before.
- Nathula needs an additional special permit, is open only to Indian citizens, and is usually open on certain days of the week only (commonly Wednesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday). There is a daily limit on vehicles.
- Nathula can close at short notice because of snow, fog or army requirements, and the permit fee may not be refunded.
- Foreign nationals can visit Tsomgo Lake with the right permits but not Baba Mandir or Nathula.
- Carry photo ID (passport, voter ID or driving licence) and passport-size photos for everyone.
See our full permit guide.
How the day works
Leave Gangtok early, around 7 am. Nathula is visited first, as access is mostly allowed in the morning, then Baba Mandir on the way back and Tsomgo Lake in the afternoon. The drive to Nathula takes about two and a half hours. You are usually back in Gangtok by late afternoon.
Best time to go
October–November and April–May give the clearest weather. December to February brings snow and a frozen lake, but also more closures. In the monsoon, fog and rain often hide the views.
Health and what to wear
- The air at Nathula has much less oxygen. Walk slowly, avoid running and do not stay too long at the top.
- People with heart, blood pressure or breathing problems, and very young children, should check with a doctor first.
- Wear thermal layers, a warm jacket, gloves, a cap and good shoes. Snow boots can be rented on the way.
- Carry water and light snacks; facilities are basic.
Frequently asked questions
Can foreigners go to Nathula?
No. Nathula and Baba Mandir are open to Indian citizens only. Foreigners can visit Tsomgo Lake with the right permits.
Which days is Nathula open?
Usually on certain days of the week only – commonly Wednesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday – subject to weather and army permission. Check with us for your dates.
Is Tsomgo Lake frozen in winter?
Yes, it usually freezes from about December to February.
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Updated October 2026 by the Tip Top Group team.